On March 1st, 1961, the U.S. Congress authorised an act creating the Peace Corps. This organisation was the brainchild of John F. Kennedy whose presidency would be cut short just two years later in 1963 with his tragic assassination. A year later, congress would sign another act Kennedy had been an avid supporter of, the Civil Rights Act, which Martin Luther King Jr. and so many others had laboured to make a reality.
Even as the first Peace Corps volunteers were being sent abroad in 1961 to work in the newly independent African nations of Ghana and Tanzania, African-Americans were still waiting for our own second wave of independence at home. Now, nearly sixty years since the Peace Corps was founded, Black Americans have increasingly been among the cohorts of volunteers who go overseas to represent our country around the world, a task as exciting as it is daunting especially when we serve in African countries.
As a second year volunteer in Rwanda, I wanted to depict some of the experiences of Black volunteers in this country, demonstrate how our experiences differ from our white peers, and address some questions prospective Black PCVs (BPCVs) may have about being a PCV in an African country. What follows are a combination of interviews I conducted with current and former BPCVs in Rwanda. These volunteers work(ed) in both Education and Health in every province of the country. These volunteers are men and women, some are first generation African-Americans (as in Ivorian- or Kenyan-American), some are bi-racial; some have been to the continent before and it is the first time for others. Being a Black volunteer abroad is as nuanced as being a Black American in the United States, so while there are some similarities, each person also has unique experiences.
“Being a Black volunteer abroad is as nuanced as being a Black American in the United States...”
The third goal of the Peace Corps is for volunteers to promote understanding of our host country on the part of Americans. And, that is the goal of this piece; to highlight how blackness shapes volunteer lives in our host country of Rwanda.
Why did these volunteers chose to join the Peace Corps:
I think I ultimately decided to join the Peace Corps because I wanted the opportunity to learn from a culture outside of my own while also being able to be a positive member of society within that culture.
I was introduced to the idea of the Peace Corps from my 9th grade teacher. I distinctly remember her bringing photos to class and showing us pictures of her volunteer site and all the wonderful work she had completed during her Peace Corps service. That presentation made a lasting impact on me and I made up my mind that I too was going to be a Peace Corps volunteer someday.
I decided to join the Peace Corps because I thought it was an amazing opportunity to serve people and get to experience a culture other than my own. Also, I studied Anthropology and African & African American Studies and this opportunity seemed to be the perfect assignment.
I am passionate about the world and combating social injustices. Education, whether it is in school classrooms or by other means, is extremely important because it is how social change agents are created. I decided to join the Peace Corps to broaden my perspective on how education is valued and implemented in other countries.
Some BPCVs knew that they wanted to serve in an African country…
It was very important that I serve in an African country. I had lived in South Africa for three months during university and loved the experience of being around so many other Black people. And now that I’m in Rwanda I’m still amazed at all the Black people around me!
It was very important for me to serve on the continent of Africa as an Ivorian-American woman. I believe that Africans in the diaspora always have a responsibility to pay it forward. History and current events have shown us that the best solutions for African development must come from African citizens bringing forth tangible solutions to our own problems. I volunteered in Africa because I wanted to amplify the voices of my communities and play a small part in African development.
Working in Africa was important to me as a teacher because I wanted to have a different perspective on Black children. As a person who worked exclusively in black urban education in the United States I had a very one-sided view of black people in the diaspora and their education. I was hopeful that the Peace Corps would give me new perspectives and it has!
Whereas others were willing to serve anywhere…but were still excited to serve in Africa:
“I chose the option “go where needed most” when applying but definitely had my fingers crossed for an African country.”
I was determined to do Peace Corps no matter the country. However, in hindsight, I'm very thankful that I was selected to serve in Rwanda.
When I was applying for the Peace Corps, I honestly had such Imposter Syndrome I was down to serve anywhere! I just really really wanted to be a Volunteer. When I was chosen for Rwanda, I remember thinking it would be this incredible opportunity to be a part of Blackness in a way that was never possible for me before.
So what thoughts initially run through a BPCVs mind about the role their ethnicity would play in their service?
I identify as Haitian-American. So coming in I didn’t think anyone would know much about Haiti. And I feared that my ethnicity would be erased and I’d only be viewed as African American. On the other hand, I thought my being Haitian-American would be a good learning opportunity for folks to widen their understanding of what “American” is past “someone white who speaks English”.
I assumed going to Rwanda that my ethnicity was going to play a positive role with everyday interaction with community members. I assumed because I’m an African woman myself that I was going to have a much easier time integrating into the culture. I naïvely assume that somehow West African culture was going to be a lot more similar to Rwandan culture than what it ended up being for me.
As a Black American, I expected that my presence would be welcomed, even celebrated. I assumed that I would be considered something like a “distant relative” because of the fact that my ancestry traces back to Africa. Even though I didn’t know the origins of my ancestors specifically, I still expected some type of camaraderie between myself and host country nationals. I will say, looking back, I realize those expectations were unrealistic.
“I really thought I would experience challenges as a Black person–when the reality is I am White here. Throughout service, I have felt somewhat excluded from Black spaces (not because of the Volunteers themselves) because I was realizing how different our experiences around our perceived identities were. It has been pretty tough for me–I definitely realize that I experience an overwhelming amount of privilege because I’m perceived as White. But I feel like I can’t relate to my own identity anymore because of how other people perceive me here in Rwanda. The felt affect is very isolating at times. ”
Initially, I had no idea that my ethnicity would play much of a role in my service. It wasn't until I had read comments on the Black Peace Corps Volunteers Facebook page and reached out to Black Peace Corps Volunteers in the country I would be serving in that I was made aware that BPCV's have different experiences from their white volunteer counterparts. Hearing from the current BPCV's and their testimonies helped me to mentally prepare myself before arriving in the country, but still, I don't think I could have done much to really prepare myself.
One of the most challenging and potentially rewarding experiences as a BPCV is having conversations with Rwandans about our identity. A common occurrence is Rwandans coming up with their own narrative about a BPCVs appearance and often not accepting what the BPCV says about ourselves as true.
During my time with my homestay family, I found myself in an uncomfortable conversation with my host mother and a visitor. The visitor insisted I could not possibly be African American because of my hair texture and light skin complexion. He asked about my parents, paternal and maternal grandparents and other family members assuming that one or more of them must be White. I recall my host mother saying rather matter of factly that I couldn't be trusted to give the answer because I didn't actually know.
The only discussion that I have really had when it comes to my ethnicity is about my eye colour, which is rare. My eyes change from day to day or depending on the color I am wearing- green, gray, or blue. When I first meet someone, there is always a look of confusion from the individual. I am told this is because they are trying to figure out my origin. Rwandans have told me that my eyes are this way because of my living amongst the abazungu (white people). A few people believe that I am from the northern part of Africa or that I am a “Frenchman.”
These conversations often emerge out of the frustration of poor communication but they can open the door to increased understanding on both sides.
Sometimes my colleagues or people I live amongst in my village will ask me where I'm from. I obviously tell them America and sometimes even go as far as mentioning South Carolina. I've found that more often than not they look at me a little confused and proceed to say "okay, but where is your origin, you have brown skin". It doesn't necessarily bother me to have these conversations but I'm not always sure of how I should be answering them. I go on to tell them that there are brown people in America, even Black people, sometimes I show them group pictures of my cohort and say "we are all Americans in this picture", "SURE?" they'll reply...I tend to have this conversation with someone at least once a day.
Just this Black History Month, I had a conversation with an English teacher at my school about my ethnicity and nationality. I explained to him that I identify as a Kenyan-American because I was born in Kenya but I was mostly raised in America. We also discussed the racial diversity in America and how an "American" doesn't look one particular way.
But being a BPCV in Rwanda isn’t all frustration and misunderstanding. There are some great aspects about being a Black American in Africa. One complaint often levelled at Black Americans in the US is that we are supposedly always spoiling for a fight; that is to say, we ‘look for opportunities to be offended’ or can’t wait to play the ‘race card’. In opposition to this narrative is the theme that emerged when I heard from my fellow BPCVs. That theme was how much we love being “invisible” often for the first time in our lives.
I’ll say that I’ve had positive experiences related to my race. I’ll have to say I love the fact that when I go places where people don’t know me and if I don’t talk, I blend in. No one is staring at me or following me or asking me for money. Of course, it doesn’t last long because I eventually have to talk but those few moments are precious.
I LOVE the fact that everyone thinks I am Rwandan at least, until I open my mouth. For me, it is an honor to be considered Rwandan.
I think my experiences differ from non black Peace Corps volunteers in different ways. One being that I think Rwandans feel more comfortable talking to me. From pre-service training, I felt that I had a connection with the Rwandan staff some other volunteers didn’t have. This may be because my skin tone is similar to theirs so they don't feel as intimidated, it also could be that I speak Swahili and most find it easier to speak in Swahili rather than English.
It's so calming to travel on my own or with another black American in Rwanda. I didn’t realise what an easy experience it was until I started traveling with some of my white colleagues. I was shocked at how different it was; all the staring, touching, and asking for money that never happens to me on my own.
“Just to be one black face among a sea of other black faces is an unexpected sort of privilege that I have enjoyed while being here. ”
The benefit of being a Black dark skinned PCV is that I can navigate this country without much gawking or staring. People see me as they would a sister or daughter of Rwanda which can be nice.
Other volunteers enjoy the chance to share more about Black culture in the United States:
A positive experience I’ve had related to my ethnicity was when all the teachers at my school wanted to learn some Creole when they found out I was Haitian American! It was a really cool chance to share that there are Black Americans that speak other languages besides English. And as the first Black American at my site, people have a lot of questions.
A positive experience I’ve had related to my ethnicity is having the opportunity to validate the existence of Black Americans. Every time I have the opportunity to tell someone that I am from America, and they believe me, it is a positive experience.
One of the main challenges BPCVs face is trying to explain the multifaceted nature of being an American. It’s hard enough for those of us who identify just as Black American, but the difficulty only increases for a Kenyan American or Haitian American who wants to express and have affirmed every part of their identity. Rwandans tend to ‘force’ us to ‘choose’ or they choose for us and often something that we don’t even have as part of our genetic or cultural heritage.
Something that is difficult for some Rwandans to grasp is that Black Americans hold differing identities. And these identities are based on regional, cultural, and historical differences. Furthermore, these differences are not only acknowledged, but also embraced. I’m proud to be Haitian American and want people to know this. But I’ve encountered people that can’t seem to grasp both of these things as true. Or why I’d want to claim the “Haitian”. If I'm Haitian, therefore I’m not “truly” American. While the United States has its faults I was born and raised there. My family is there. It’s my home.
I think the one negative aspect of my identity here in Rwanda comes from the concept of visibility. Living in a somewhat culturally diverse place in the US, I had the supreme luxury of being invisible. When I walked into a room, I hoped people would notice me because they thought I was stunningly attractive rather than just being shocked by the color of my skin. I’m joking! But for real, living everyday with a 1000 watt spotlight in your face can be incredibly exhausting, especially because you know people are identifying you as something you don’t identify as yourself. This is of course, the reality that many People of Color face everyday in the US. And I am trying to honor and internalize this feeling so I can be a more aware POC when I go back to the US. I also acknowledge that I am incredibly fortunate to have never felt unsafe because of my race while living here. I definitely see that being White passing allows me privilege which in turn keeps me safer and gives me undeserved credibility at my site.
I always found it particularly difficult to be called umuzungu (white person). I felt it was an insult. Not because I consider being White to be bad or negative but because it stripped me of my identity, my family history and the strength and power of Black people that I take so much pride in. Although it was difficult I was eventually able to ignore and overcome this challenge. By the end of my service, everyone in my community called me by my name or "Teacher".
People often loudly and publicly discuss my race and try to “classify me.” The last time this happened a large section of a public bus was talking about if I was “mixed with Belgian or from Tanzania.” It is difficult because it is dehumanizing and also uncomfortable.
Another surprising and painful common experience is for BPCVs to be treated as ’second-class citizens’ precisely because of our blackness. This most often manifests when we are together with white volunteers.
When out with other Peace Corps volunteers for News Years eve, I was charged double at the door of a bar, asked by multiple HCNs if I was really American, and berated for not being able to speak French.
The most common negative experience for me is when people treat me a certain way after assuming or denying my identity. While this happens in multiple settings, I’m hyper aware of it when I’m in the company of my white counterparts. Examples of this are when I’m at a restaurant and I order first but I’m served last. When I check into a hotel and I’m the only person asked to show my passport. When I’m standing in line, I’m skipped over…I know it’s not necessarily from a negative place. However, it has allowed me to further realize the effect of colonization and anti-Black practices specifically in Rwanda.
A group of Black volunteers went to a bowling place but when we arrived, we were told there were no working lanes. One volunteer commented that we should have brought a white person with us. I thought he was joking. A few minutes later another volunteer showed up who was actually a Latinx volunteer but perceived as white by the Rwandan woman working there. He asked if they could open a lane for us and they did. I was so surprised and dismayed by the experience.
Given that the experiences of BPCVs obviously differ from our white colleagues, I wanted to know what advice there was for white volunteers who want to be active allies for black volunteers.
Use your privilege as a platform. Speak up when you see Black PCVs treated unfairly. Educate your community about racial diversity and not just in February or during other historical and heritage holidays.
Just listen sometimes, you don't always have to compare your situation or shed some light on how you've also been done dirty. Just accept that the things others experience don't always need some shallow comparison to be heard. Speak up and speak out. If you're around or you witness some foul behavior happening, be willing to stand up and question the actions taking place.
“Educate yourself about American History and give complex answers to complex questions; invite minority volunteers to your site, show pictures that represent America’s diversity; add purpose to your privilege.”
The first step to becoming an ally is educating yourself. A lot of people like the idea of being an ally, but rarely put in the work it takes to become one. You can’t learn to be an ally simply from reading a few articles online or watching a presentation. Allyship is a commitment to learning. You must continuously seek out information on issues like white privilege and anti-black racism. Realizing how those issues impact Black Americans in the United States will better prepare you to be an ally for BPCVs in your host country. It’s important to remember that allyship is not a “one size fits all”, especially in regards to Black PCVs. Despite having race as a commonality, each Black PCV has their own unique experience. Therefore, expectations for what an ally should do may be unique as well...listen to the Black PCVs you build relationships with throughout your service to learn how to best support them.
What about some advice for Black Americans who are thinking about joining the Peace Corps and specifically who are considering serving in an African country? The main theme; don’t have any expectations. Your experience will defy them.
I would say don't go into your PC service and assume that it's going to be like a "homecoming/return to the motherland " type of embrace. I think feelings of rejection can be avoided if you go into your service with an open mind and heart.
The best advice I could give to a Black American considering serving in an African country is to come into this experience without expectations.
Be open-minded. Don't foster specific expectations or assumptions just because you're going to serve on the African continent.
As complicated as it is to be a BPCV in an African country, I strongly echo these final sentiments:
“My time in Rwanda helped me develop an even stronger pride in my Blackness. ”
My advice to Black Americans considering serving in an African country is to do it! While there are many ups and downs, I don’t regret choosing to serve in an African country. I feel as though being here has allowed me to be more aware of myself.
James Baldwin’s apt summation of the lot of an African American (to be African without memory and American without privilege) is something I’ve come to experience and understand as a black American volunteer in Africa. Along with my Black colleagues, I regularly have my African-ness assumed and my American-ness challenged or even denied. The great joy and the great burden of being a Black person in Africa is the onus we have to stand firm in our blackness with all the multiculturalism that entails. We represent different regions, patterns of migration, languages, and backgrounds. We inherited the hard work of the ones before us who laboured to make our equal inclusion in an organisation like the Peace Corps a possibility. And claiming that inheritance, we use it to serve our global community. This service is a vital way of showing the world some of America’s rich diversity. The Peace Corps Act created an unprecedented international service organisation and became a significant part of JFK’s legacy. The Civil Rights Act was a monumental move toward equality under the law for many marginalised groups and remains an epic part of MLK’s legacy. These two years of service in Rwanda are an opportunity for Black Americans to represent our home country, to serve our host country, and hopefully to leave a legacy of our own.
Acknowledgments:
This piece would not be possible without the many volunteers who openly and honestly shared their experiences with me. I am so thankful to each of them:
Tiana Burgess, Education 11, Western Province
Tyneeka Dyson, Education 10, Southern Province
Larisa Gehmie, Health 9, Eastern Province
Jonitka Hall, Health 11, Southern Province
Brina Joiner, Education 10, Northern Province
Nile Lang, Education 10, Western Province
Sabrina Mahoney, Education 10, Western Province
Alisa Nazaire, Education 11, Eastern Province
Nigel Richardson, Education 9, Northern Province
Jerrion Shell, Education 11, Northern Province
Nicole Mwalili, Education 11, Western Province
Book Recommendations:
Below are some book recommendations if you’d like to learn more about race relations in the United States which can be an important first step toward understanding the experiences of Black Americans abroad as well.
The Warmth of Other Suns | Isabel Wilkerson
White Fragility: Why It’s So Hard for White People to Talk About Race | Robin DiAngelo
Why are all the Black Kids sitting together in the cafeteria? | Dr. Beverly Daniel Tatum
The Education of a WASP | Lois Mark Stalvey
Blindspot: Hidden Biases of Good People | Anthony Greenwald and Mahzarin Banaji
Waking up White: And Finding Myself in the Story of Race | Debby Irving
We can’t Teach what we don’t know: White Teachers, multiracial schools | Gary. R. Howard
White Privilege: Unpacking the Invisible Knapsack | Peggy McIntosh
Dear White America: Letter to a New Minority | Tim Wise
Just Mercy: A Story of Justice and Redemption | Bryan Stevenson
How Europe Underdeveloped Africa | Walter Rodney